Location : Dusun Laek, Desa Bengkilu, Kecamatan Tujuh Belas, Kabupaten Bengkayang, Kalimantan Barat, Indonesia.

On the second day after our arrival was the Nyabak’ng event or Nyobeng depending on the local dialect in deferent areas of Kalbar. At about 5pm, villagers started to gather around the ‘baluk’ or ‘baruk’ which looked like an ordinary square house on stilts and was where skulls were kept.

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The skull house or baruk

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The sacrificial altar

Village elders would prepare the elaborate offerings before the sounding of the long drum and gongs, signaling the commencement of the ritual.

Gawai Dayak, Nyabakng, paddy harvest festival, authentic village, traditional, culture, ritual, skull cleansing, Borneo, Indonesia, West Kalimantan, Dusun Laek, native, Tourism, travel guide, crossborder
The Ketua Adat getting things ready for the ritual

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The gong players

Nyabak'ng, paddy harvest festival, authentic village, traditional, culture, destination, Borneo, Kalimantan Barat, Tujuh Belas, native, wisata budaya, Tourism, travel guide, crossborder, 印尼西加里曼丹, 土著丰收节日

Dayak, authentic village, indigenous, traditional, culture, destination, Borneo, Indonesia, Desa Bengkilu, Dusun Laek, native, tribal, wisata budaya, travel guide, 印尼西加里曼丹, 土著丰收节日 Nyabakng, authentic village, indigenous, traditional, culture, Bengkayang, Indonesia, Dusun Laek, native, tribe, tribal, Tourism, travel guide, transborder, 婆罗洲西加里曼丹, 原住民丰收节日Mantras were chanted and the kamangs or devas invited down from the mountain to partake on the offerings and the 3 animals to be sacrificed, namely chicken, dog and pig.

Nyabak'ng, paddy harvest festival, indigenous, traditional, ritual, Borneo, Kalimantan Barat, Desa Bengkilu, Dusun Laek, native, tribal, tourist attraction, travel guide, transborder, 婆罗洲西加里曼丹, 原住民部落丰收节
Chicken sacrificed

Gawai Dayak, Nyabakng, paddy harvest festival, indigenous, traditional, culture, ritual, skull feeding, Borneo, Indonesia, Bengkayang, Dusun Laek, tribal, Tourist attraction, travel guide, transborder Nyabak'ng, thanksgiving, authentic village, traditional, culture, ritual, skull cleansing, West Kalimantan, Dusun Laek, Tujuh Belas, native, Tourism, tourist attraction, transborneo, 印尼西加里曼丹, 原住民部落 Nyabakng, authentic village, indigenous, traditional, skull feeding, destination, Bengkayang, Indonesia, Kalimantan Barat, Dusun Laek, native, tribe, tribal, travel guide, 婆罗洲西加里曼丹, 原住民丰收节日As the tempo of the gong progressed to a very fast beat, the skulls were lowered from the baruk to the external altar to be bathed with coconut water and fed. Gawai Nyabakng, paddy harvest festival, authentic village, traditional, ritual, Bengkayang, Indonesia, Desa Bengkilu, Dusun Laek, native, tribal, wisata budaya, Tourism, travel guide, 婆罗洲西加里曼丹, 土著落丰收节日During the sacrifice, one of the villagers suddenly got into a trance, shoving around violently and had to be subdued by his friends. Then suddenly the gong tempo glided to a more soothing one and everyone would be dancing to the rhythm in that unique style that only Dayaks can. Nyabakng, indigenous, culture, ritual, Bengkayang, Indonesia, Dusun Laek, Sanggau Ledo, native, tribal, wisata budaya, Tourism, travel guide, transborder, 印尼西加里曼丹, 原住民丰收节日

Gawai Nyabakng, culture, event, skull feeding, backpackers, Bengkayang, Indonesia, Dusun Laek, Tujuh Belas, native, tribal, Tourism, tourist attraction, transborder, 印尼西加里曼丹, 土著丰收节日
Coconut water bathing

Yet all these flowed before our very eyes without any instructions from anyone, like everyone right from the gong ensemble to the ritual performers knew exactly what to do.

Despite the fact that we have attended many Nyobeng rituals in Gumbang, Padang Pan, Sebujit, Sujah, Segiring, Kadek and Tadan, Laek’s ritual gave me some moments of anxiety which I had never experienced before.

No mental preparation was available in the form of a program schedule because there was none. Visitors used to a structured lifestyle would be disappointed because they would never know what was going to come next. One just has to go along with the flow and always be ready with one’s camera for what’s to unfold. It would be short and hasty giving visitors no time to ponder what the hell was going on.

Unfortunately, before the event ended the looming dark clouds gave way and the villagers hurtled for cover. The sudden heavy rain spoilt the ending of an otherwise very interesting and different kind of Nyobeng we used to witness in other parts of Kalbar.

Gawai Nyabakng, authentic village, traditional, ritual, skull cleansing, Bengkayang, Indonesia, Desa Bengkilu, Dusun Laek, Tujuh Belas, native, tribal, tourist attraction, crossborder, 印尼西加里曼丹, 土著丰收节日
Dancing time

Nyabakng, paddy harvest festival, authentic village, culture, ritual, skull cleansing, destination, Bengkayang, Indonesia, Desa Bengkilu, Dusun Laek, tribe, wisata budaya, Tourism, travel guide, transborneo Gawai Dayak, thanksgiving, indigenous, traditional, culture, event, backpackers, Indonesia, Desa Bengkilu, Sanggau Ledo, tribe, wisata budaya, Tourism, travel guide, 印尼西加里曼丹, 土著部落 Gawai Dayak, Nyabakng, paddy harvest festival, indigenous, culture, event, Borneo, Indonesia, Desa Bengkilu, Tujuh Belas, native, tribe, Tourism, travel guide, 印尼西加里曼丹, 婆罗洲原住民 paddy harvest festival, authentic village, culture, event, skull feeding, backpackers, Bengkayang, Borneo, Tujuh Belas, Sanggau Ledo, tribe, native, Tourism, travel guide, crossborder, wisata budayaThe spiritual presence here was undeniable. Those who know the village of Laek well have a lot of respect for their spiritual powers and it was here that the panglimas or Dayak spiritual warriors rose and ignited the Madura-Dayak conflict in 1997 into a full scale communal warfare resulting in hundreds of death and the destruction of property.

Don’t mess with these friendly timid fellas. Once their ancestors are summoned to empower them, their flying machetes or mandau terbang made many skeptics begged for their lives. They took no prisoners. Heads staked on road sides were the trophies of their war machine as witnessed in 1997. Old photos flashed at the back of my mind reminding me what a gentle looking tribe can transform into when pushed against the wall. But here we were among them in a friendlier time eating and drinking tuak on Gawai day. Next……Sambas town

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