Location : Uma Bakung & Uma Baha, Apau Koyan Resettlement, Belaga District, Kapit Division, Sarawak, Malaysia.
Our 10 day road trip began from Kuching two days ahead of the Chinese (Lunar) New Year celebration. We covered Apau Koyan Resettlement, Bakun, Murum, Tegulang Resettlement, Belaga and finally Maludam Wetland Park. With the current yet to be completed Pan Borneo highway, we had to spend the night in Bintulu before continuing our drive to Apau Koyan the next morning. When the Pan Borneo highway is completed the stopover at Bintulu will not be necessary. Fuel is available in Apau Koyan and Belaga but not in Murum or Bakun. A jerry can with spare fuel would save you from stress.
The roads leading to the areas we mentioned above were all tar sealed except for Tegulang which was dirt/gravel logging trails and definitely not recommended for saloon cars. Although tar sealed, the road from the junction of Bintulu/Miri towards Apau Koyan was very deceptively smooth. There were at least 8 humps that gave us air times even driving at between 60 – 80 kph. The road condition from Bakun to Murum was equally bad if not worse. There were many patches of loose gravel. Apau Koyan to Bakun was good. Bakun to Belaga was filled with many dangerous potholes and sharp bends.
Despite our being a first timer driving to all these places we had no trouble as roads signs were there except when trying to locate Uma Baha (Kenyah) our homestay at Apau Koyan. There was no signage to indicate Uma Baha on the road side but after a few phone calls with Ms Ester our homestay lady, we were slowly put back on track.
Uma Baha is a Kenyah village relocated from their last dwelling in the Bakun area of Long Bulan although their long nomadic history started from Long Aka to Maruang to Long Itam to Long Jamek as according to the interesting story told to us by Pemanca Tony.
It is one of the most highly populated so far compared to all the other relocated villages. As we drove into the village, two things stood impressively before us, the beautiful arch and the majestic 24m tall totem pole which they call ‘Tungun Belawing’.
As far as we know, there are only 2 villages offering homestay here in Apau Koyan. The other is Uma Belor the more popular Kayan longhouse. But we do believe there are more discreet ones in the other villages. Uma Baha has a market place that sells fresh vegetables and fruits daily and there is also a coffeeshop in it that offers fresh noodles and brewed coffee. Next to the market is a bakery whose owner runs the homestay we stayed at as well. Tourists will not have to worry about food here. The owners Lawing and Uyan have wild meat and fish stowed in their freezers. Next ….village hopping in Apau Koyan
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